What IS the VICDIVIDE 550?

A 550km bikepacking route across Victoria, Australia, traversing the Great Dividing Range.

Fully self-supported, off-road adventure from Melbourne to Albury/Wodonga.

First held in 2019 as a mass start bikepacking race, leaving Wurundjeri Spur at 6am in February, it was hosted and created by Lewis Ciddor, inspired by his 2018 Tour Divide (Canada to Mexico - 4,400km) win to create something epic locally.

Fast forward to 2022, after subsequent succesful and safely traversed editions, the land manager (DELWP - now DEECA) brought the mass-start event to a halt, deeming the route to be a “high risk” and unable to take place on land under their management without a lengthy application process and public liability insurance.

Fortunately, the roads and trails remain, available year round to be covered by foot, hoof or wheel, which many do and perhaps broadening the appeal to those unable to make the February dates work.

From discussion with riders past, and my own experience of the Howqua river trail, I knew it was suited to MTB with extensive singletrack. It has been successfully, but perhaps regretably done on gravel bikes.

Countless times along the ride I praised Lewis (if only in my head and to my ride companions) for creating a challenging, well thought out route, that has just the right amount of spice with minimal exposure to main roads, and almost no HIKE A BIKE.

The route looks like this on a map.

VICDIVIDE550 on RideWithGPS

Get out there.

For those who like to go fast and race - the Fastest Known Time (FKT) is a blistering 38 hours and 14 minutes, set by Stephen Lane.

One benchmark that was still up for grabs was the Best Known Time (BKT). Huw proposed the route, divided into 5 legs with nightly accomodation.

This was the overarching theme of the week, and truth be told my style of 'touring'.

Bikepacking the route would have been a very different experience.

Racing the route would have been a very different experience.

This was our experience and I hope it inspires you to get a crew together to plan your own outdoor adventure(s).

Victoria Divided - by days.

In the lead up, all of us had different 'training' regimes. Huw had done a few long gravel rides, Adam had spent of lot of time in the river with a rod, and I'd been riding 2km a day to school with my kid and knocking out a few push-ups.

This is the first ride route that I'd been slightly nervous about, with lots of chatter from past riders about how hard sections were, technical terrain, washed out descents, chance of wild weather and general remoteness.

On top of that, with relatively little ride preparation - I'd set myself some personal targets.

Ride flats.

There is absolutely no doubt that you can transfer more power to the pedals with clipless systems - but how nice would it be so not need another pair of shoes for days end, to have more float on the platform for varied positions, to not be click-clacking your way into a cafe and pub at days end.

Rigid + drops.

Just incase the ride itself wasn't challenging enough, I decided to stick with a rigid steel fork, and drop bars because John Tomac! It has it's pros and cons. Trickier on technical terrain, more comfortable on the longer sections thanks to the varied hand positions.

Don't walk.

With a lot of singletrack, steep fireroads, and the long technical challenge of the 'Stonefly' climb of Buller, combined with a loaded bike with drops - this would be the hardest box to tick.

Day 1

Yarra Trails > Marysville

140km // 3400m

The classic depart location is Wurundjeri Spur Lookout for route sticklers which Huw and I would later become.

Huw departed Carlton, myself from Middle Gorge under a cover of darkness and we met along the Yarra Trail in high spirits.

Adam would be meeting us at days end in Marysville as he made his own way from Mt Beauty.

The first section of the day meanders along a smooth gravel route, all the way to Warrandyte where our first coffee stop awaited.

From Warrandyte onwards, the fuel pitstops are Toolangi Primary School to refill your bidons and that's it.

The route takes in sections of Smiths Gully MTB trails, Christmas Hills, Steels Creek (hectic descent off Skyline Road is a hoot!) and Mount Monda.

Both Huw and I had a around 3L of liquid carrying capacity, and with soaring temperatures, I'd recommend this as a minimum.

From here you can just about taste the treats of The Duck Inn.

Just one long drag to the outskirts of Marysville, before bombing some singletrack into town.

Adam was waiting for us at The Duck Inn, and had himself an extremely hot and dusty ride to Marysville, caked in a foundation of road grit.

I ordered myself a shandy and Huw introduced me to a 'Diesel', a high torque mix of beer and coke.

Parma rating 8/10.

Day Rating 🌶️🌶️🌶️

Day 2 (wearing the same clothes).

Marysville > Jamieson

110km // 2800m

A mildly relaxing night in the cabin of the caravan park, keeping up to date with MAFS on the recliner couch before hitting the hay.

I struggled to get a solid sleep due to the sweltering heat. The first port of call was the shopping centre for the days entire fuel supplies. Tip for new players. Never shop hungry.

Big River Road was a highlight - and remarkably almost 4WD free.

Another solid day in the saddle, with lots of climbing, mid ride cool downs and no calamity.

A helmet tip to previous adventures in the saddle.

Navigation

The VICIDIVIDE route was published on RideWithGPS.

Previously I have used Strava to create routes, but it is not a patch on RideWithGPS which gives you much more data on the profile, gradients, and distance remaining on climbs which can be just enough mental carrot to keep the pedals turning.

Having navigation, communication and documentation in one device is my style, and while a seperate camera 'might' take a better photo, this combination of words and photos was taken with a smartphone, except for the electric eagle shots.

Huw (cockpit shown above) also uploaded the route into his Wahoo computery-thing which gave an even more granular experience and precise navigation.

Looking out over Lake Eildon from here, you know you've broken the back of the Eildon-Jamieson road and the day is nearly done.

Strap in for one of the most fun descents all the way to the Court House pub in Jamieson, which hasn't changed in the 20 years since I first visited, and unlikely to change in the next 20.

Tuesday night is the Pool Comp!

From the bar, it's a 20m walk to your bed - but NO BIKES INSIDE!

The accomodation is basic - but comfortable, and the water pressure is EXCELLENT which is my benchmark for ratings.

The town is a hotspot for all outdoor activities, and the General Store has just about everything to get your by in a pinch.

Parma Rating 8 / 10

Day Rating 🌶️🌶️🌶️

Day 3 (wearing the same clothes).

Jamieson > Buller Village

95km // 3300m

This was the day I feared the most, but was also looking forward to. It's a big ride on it's own - but loaded, with 2 days riding in the legs, and the most challenging terrain and vertical gain of the route puts this section into perspective.

It has been nearly 30 years since I'd first ridden the Howqua Inlet trail from Sheepyard Flat as part of an epic trail day that featured more than half a dozen river crossings. That was on a 26" MTB with powerful V-brakes!

Before leaving the charm of Jamieson, we enjoyed a sensational breakfast at the General Store (thanks Andy). Bacon and eggers, croissants, muffins and more. I ordered ham & cheese toasties for the road ahead and, after lubricating our chains - we set off.

Rambling out of town, the gravel road quickly become wonferful singletrack.

The singletrack is extremely exposed in some parts with high consequence should you step off the wrong side of the bike - like an extreme version of Plenty Gorge.

With the exception of trees strewn across the trail, it was all 'rideable'.

A reminder.

This route is remote.

Beyond telling friends and family where you are going, using apps like Life360 so they can follow your progress is something I recommend. RidewithGPS also allows sharing of your progress with friends AND publicly.

Telstra always has the best network coverage, but it is not guaranteed for the entire route.

For this trip, Huw had access to a Garmin InReach in the unlikely event we needed to make emergency contact if we were out of phone range.

Emergency access for this section is very difficult so I highly recommend travelling with someone and always keeping them in ear/eyeshot for sections like this.

Ritchie's Hut.

Great time for a photo opportunity and stretch the legs. It also marks the end of the riverside technical singletrack which Huw was happy about.

It is stunningly beautiful and I did see the only 3 snakes of the ride this day. A yellow bellied black, tiger and flat - the latter I got a photo of.

We bumped into 'The Thought Ninja', once, twice, three times to the point like it felt like it could all go Wolf Creek at any moment.

Pitstop(s)

The great thing about a Best Known Time attempt is any opportunity that presents itself to get off the bike is to be celebrated.

I think we had 3 or more dips in the stream / river - from just the feet to full submersion.

After one final cooling of the jets in a stream, and unsuccesful casts to snag some fish, it was upwards all the way to Mt Buller Village.

MECHANICAL!

Not long into the final stretch of the day from Howqua River to the Buller Village, I was descending at high speed and feathered the brakes into a turn, which was followed by a THWACK - then continual grind.

It was coming from the rear so I pulled up as fast and safely as I could.

A quick inspection and the brake caliper mounting bolt had taken a hasty vacation. Scanning the surrounds, it was nowhere to be found.

Fortunately I had brought Huw along, who had in his possesion an assortment of spare bolts BUT not an M6 brake bolt. He did have a longer M6 nut and bolt, so with a multi-tool, and my 8-Bit pliers, we got a solution which would get me to the summit where there was not only a bike shop, but the MTB National Championships in days to follow.

It did mean that for the remainder of the 20km climb, I had the rear brake giving resistance which explains how Huw beat me to the top. The silver lining was I didn't have to listen to his 'motivational music' playlist.

Once again, The Thought Ninja appeared, and I grabbed onto the tail of his ute for an impromptu tow up to the junction.

Another day done, another shandy to celebrate.

Parma rating 6 / 10.

Day Rating 🌶️🌶️🌶️🌶️

I'd snagged an M6 bolt from one of the racers in the village and faffed things back to normal while the TV flickered in the backdrop and a ghastly storm descended on the mountain.

Good Night.

Day 4 (wearing the same clothes)

Mt Buller Village > Myrtleford

150km // 1900m

By the numbers, this should have been the easiest day.

It was not.

Woody to the rescue.

One of the logistical concerns for day 4 was the breakfast timing. Typically the Village is a ghost town in the warmer months, but with the MTB nationals being held, the mountain was buzzing at first light, which meant we could get breakfast at 7am and roll out shortly afterwards.

Woody's in the Arlberg had all the treats for the first part of the day, with our first and only refuel option being Whitfield General Store at the 75km / halfway point.

The first section of the morning is all the great trails atop Buller, starting with Trigger Happy, an absolute hoot and we were giggling like school kids all the way to Howqua Gap where the Stonefly climb lay waiting.

The Stonefly climb is a long, steep and technical ascent, part of the original EPIC trail. It's a climb I know reasonably well and have covered countless times on a dual suspension trail bike.

I was absolutely stoked to make it to the top without walking and/or dabbing on a heavy rig with no suspension, drops and flats. It took me just under an hour from hut to hut. Strava says so.

Just when you think the climbing is done, there's a little more spice waiting around the next corner until you reach the hut near the top. The views make up for the slog.

From here, the descending begins for a while, before climbing the Razorback to Mount Winstanley, rolling the ridge and up to Mount Number 3. We bumped into a few cowboys - which you should always give way to. Especially when they're not wearing pants.

Then the descending begins in earnest on the most chundery, boulder laden groads this side of Melbourne. There was possible retina damage from the head bouncing.

Fierce concentration and handling skills is required for this steep and prolonged drop.

Photos do not do it justice.

Don't ask me how - but my spiritual guide, Bandit Healer, made it all the way.

After an absolute pummeling, we reached Evans Creek Track which is a delight - until you reach The Wall.

It's the kind of sight that would have most stopping and admitting defeat at the very bottom - but I'd decided I was going up until I fell off the bike.

With Huw as my witness, I made it all the way up without dabbing, though there was a brief moment as the rear wheel broke traction that I thought it was over. Keeping it just under the redline, I crawled up the 30% groad, punctuated with water bars for over 300m. I suppose the only way to confirm that is to go back.

Shortly afterwards I saw my first dingo in the wild!

Lake Hume Hovell looked inviting as I rode past, but not as much as lunch in Whitfield.

I message Huw to say I was going to punch on, did a time-trial to Whitfield for a well earned hot chips and potato cake. It was nearly 2:30pm, 35 degrees, and there was still a lot of distance to cover.

Route Sticklers.

By the time Adam rolled into Whitfield, another halfa had passed and he was not having a great time with the heat.

He knew a 'shorter/easier' way to Myrtleford and was taking that. I was happy to go with the flow, Huw was keen to stick to the route and after recounting a story from the HUNT1000 about Nick Scarejew and his resolve to stick THE ROUTE - we parted ways, last one to the pub pays for drinks!

Amen.

Personally, I was a pretty cooked at this point but so glad I stayed the course as it did not disappoint.

Besides avoiding blacktop, it meandered through cool country lanes, easements that threaded their way between properties, and finished with Meriang Gap which is an absolute banger way to finish the day.

I was running low on water and took a gamble taking tank water from a few rural properties we passed and hoped I was going to pay for it later.

Nearly there.

Huw and I shared a brew at the bar in Myrtleford, conquering another big day. Brutal climbs, punishing descents, crosswinds in searing heat made the first sip that much sweeter.

We rolled up to our accomodation with Adam not far away.

This was the first non-parma meal, dining at Tu Vietnamese in town.

Day Rating 🌶️🌶️🌶️ + 🌶️ from the nights meal.

One more day to go.

Day 5 (wearing the same clothes)

Myrtleford > Albury

100km // 1500m

This final day ended the way this adventure began, with Huw and I as a pair. Adam devised a solo trek to Mt Beauty, and after a hearty breakfast we parted ways.

I was thinking the final stretch would be a fizzer. It started with the protected Murray to Mountains Rail Trail before zig zagging across the highway to Flagstaff road - which was one of my favourite gravel roads of the entire ride.

An arduous climb, then a series of gritty rollers along the spine of the range that overlooks Beechworth until you reach Stanley - the perfect spot for morning tea.

Shortly after Stanley, it intersects the Indigo Epic MTB trail at the perfect point to enjoy the descent.

The end of Indigo Epic plonks you perfectly into the hamlet of Yackandandah.

Gum Tree Pies is the pick of the culinary options - of which there are many!

Before you wiggle around the back of Barunduda was my least enjoyable 10 minutes of the entire week - a 3km stretch along the highway which is unavoidable and highlighted how amazing the route overall is. Another short section along the Kiewa River Highway, then back to the protection of the High Country Rail Trail.

The home stretch will take you within stone's throw of Washo's bike shop which is worth visiting for eye candy alone.

Home time!

We rolled through the main drag of Albury to the bottle shop, getting some extra cold ones to celebrate by the river.

I can't tell you how good it felt to float down the Murray. It's a popular pastime for locals. Wade into the cool waters from the Hume crosses, and enjoy the world pass you by at relatively low speed. Pop out a few hundred metres later and repeat between brews.

There was some mild panic about potentially missing the train home as we coudn't reserve seating. We got tickets from the station, boarded in Wodonga, headed for Melbourne.

Friday night is popular and you'll often get a packed train.

I got off at Broadmeadows, leaving me with another 20km time-trial home for PIZZA NIGHT!

This whole ride was a great reminder of the type of recreation I love the most - and I'm already planning the next one.

Plan your own 'Best Known Time'

Routes by day.

Melbourne > Marysville | 140km 2800mm

Marysville > Jamiseon | 110km 2700m

Jamieson > Mt Buller Village | 95km 2800m

Mt Buller Village > Myrtleford | 140km 1600m

Myrtleford > Albury | 100km 1500m

Accomodation

Prices vary from $50-80 per night, and with a few extra humans, that drops significantly. All towns have multiple options.

We stayed at:

  • Cabin at Caravan Park - Marysville
  • Court House Hotel - Jamieson
  • Arlberg - Mt Buller
  • Alpine Motel - Myrtleford

Getting 'home'

V-Line Train | Wodonga - Southern Cross - $11 !

Book tickets here

Tips

  • Eat heaps.
  • Drink even more.
  • Take Huw & Adam if available

Button label

Moving Pictures

There's a bunch on our instagram for the dynamic ride experience.

Stories from the saddle

Bikes of the Ride

We all had 2 wheels - with varying setups.

Huw's Karate Monkey

  • Surly Karate Monkey - LARGE
  • Steel Frame
  • Rock Shox Reba 120mm fork
  • SQ Labs bars and bar ends
  • K-Lite dynamo powered illumination
  • Shimano XT 11 speed 11-51
  • Wolf Tooth 30t
  • Thomson dropper post
  • Revelate bags
  • Rear rack
  • MKS pedals
  • Nike trainers
  • Wahoo head unit
  • Teravail Ehline 29 x 2.5

Adam's Timberjack Ti

  • Salsa Timberjack Titanium LARGE
  • Rock Shox PIKE Ulitmate 120mm
  • SRAM GX AXS 10-50t
  • 28t Wolf Tooth Chainring
  • XTR brakes
  • Paul Boxcar stem
  • Reverb dropper post
  • Garmin headunit
  • Apidura handlebar / saddle / hip bags
  • Chris King MTN30 Wheels
  • Wolf Tooth waveform pedals
  • Teravail Warwick 29 x 2.5
  • Tenkara fishing rod
  • 18kg~

FYXO's Krampus

  • Surly Krampus - XL
  • Steel frame + fork
  • SRAM AXS X01 10-50t
  • SRAM Rival XPLR
  • 32t chainring
  • Wolf Tooth drop bar remote
  • Quad Lock Moto mount
  • Apidura Expedition frame bag 12L
  • Apidura Expedition saddle bag 9L
  • Ortlieb handlebar bag 6.5L
  • Teravail Honco 29 x 2.6
  • Brooks Cambium saddle
  • Wolf Tooth Waveform pedals
  • Crank Bros Stampede shoes
  • Knog Blinder 2300

Gear list

Here's what I carried:

To wear:

  • 2 pairs of socks
  • 2 chamois shorts
  • 1 pair of shorts
  • 1 pair of jocks
  • 1 pair of shoes
  • Short sleeve t-shirt
  • Long sleeve t-shirt
  • Rain jacket
  • Floppy hat
  • Sunglasses
  • Helmet

Plus

  • First Aid kit
  • Zip Ties
  • Wet wipes

Technology

  • iphone (photos, video, navigation, communication)
  • 10,000mah Battery bank + cables
  • DJI Mini 3 Pro drone
  • Knog Blinder 2300 light

On bike Fuel

  • Water purification - aquatabs
  • Hydralyte one tab per 1L bottle / one without
  • GoodnessMe fruit straps / nuggets
  • Pringles (where possible)

Storage

  • Apidura Expedition Frame Bag 12L
  • Apidura Expedition Saddle Bag 9L
  • Ortlieb Classic 6.5L handlebar bag

Spares

  • 2 TPU tubes
  • Wolf Tooth 8-bit pliers
  • Wolf Tooth En-Case pump
  • Wax based lube

Did not bring but will in future:

  • Spare M4, M5, M6 bolts
  • Spare AXS battery
  • Huw and Adam*

Leave any questions in the comments and...

Get out there!

Thank you Lewis Ciddor from creating something amazing to do with friends old and new.

Ride safe.

1 comment

  • Albert
    • Albert
    • August 20, 2025 at 6:44 pm

    Dude! What an epic ride and a great story. I’ve wanted to do this route for five plus years. Might just be the inspiration I need to have a crack.

Leave a comment

Please note, comments need to be approved before they are published.

This site is protected by hCaptcha and the hCaptcha Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.